Let’s face it: very often, planning a winter weekend, we are a bit intimidated by the idea of visiting the Piedmont hills at this time of year. Somewhat because Piedmont also offers wonderful snow-capped mountains on which to ski, partly because we think there is not much to do in Monferrato in winter. I’ll tell you what: we suggest beautiful museums in the Monferrato region for you to admire between a spa and a glass of wine, you after your visit have a chocolate and tell us how it went.

Leonardo Bistolfi Civic Museum and Plaster Collection – Casale Monferrato

Two museums in one: on the second floor is a valuable Pinacoteca filled with works ranging from the 14th to the 19th century; on the ground floor is the Gipsoteca, which houses a wide variety of pieces created by Leonardo Bistolfi. A journey through time that testifies to the evolution of art in the Monferrato Casalese, dotted with masterpieces such as the Allegory of Music by painter Angelica Bottera; but also a fascinating journey into the reality of the sculptor’s craft.

In fact, the final stone of the work was rarely carved directly; much more often, a plaster work, identical to the finished work, was created first, on which measurements were taken and notes pinned to create the final masterpiece. Gypsum libraries are a testimony to a long and laborious process, a “behind-the-scenes work” that, like many behind-the-scenes jobs, is in danger of being forgotten in the face of the splendor of the final result.

Hours are Thursday from 8.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and 2.30 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. and Friday, Saturday, Sunday and midweek holidays from 10.30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. For reservations, prices and other info we leave the link: https://www.comune.casale-monferrato.al.it/museo-info

Palazzo del Gusto – Nizza Monferrato

What are the basic pieces of Piedmontese fritto misto? Why is bagna cauda so popular in Monferrato? And again, what differentiates Roccaverano robiola from other robiolas?

In the halls of the eighteenth-century Palazzo del Gusto you will discover the answer to these questions and more: you will immerse yourself in the tradition of a fascinating and mysterious land, follow the story of the men who revolutionized the concept of wine in our cellars, and listen to the story of a choral Journey along the Po’ Valley made by the famous Mario Soldati. When you leave the Museum, stop by the Regional Enoteca to taste a new barbera.

Access to the museum is managed by the Nice Regional Enoteca: here is the link for hours and reservations. https://enotecanizza.it/

Alfieri Palace – Asti

Do you know The Saul? It is one of Vittorio Alfieri’s greatest works. Born into nobility, intolerant of social conventions and military obligations, far from the world of politics, he is one of the most important playwrights of the eighteenth century. Right in Asti is his birthplace, a wonderful palace now consecrated to his life and memory.

As you wander through its scenic halls, you will not only delve into the life of Piedmont’s most famous playwright, but also breathe in the life that was led here, near the future first capital of Italy, in the shadow of the Savoy family and alongside France.

The palace is open Monday through Sunday, 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. (last entrance at 6:00 p.m.): for information, prices and reservations here the link!https://www.museidiasti.com/palazzo-alfieri/

Archaeological Museum – Acqui

In the imposing Paleologi Castle in Acqui there are not only stories of ladies and knights: there is also evidence of the passage of men and women who have lived in these lands since Paleolithic times. Walking through the streets of Acqui, you will surely have noticed the Roman-era Bollente and the very pretty old town: here you will delve into its history, a fascinating history of peoples, dominations and coexistence of cultures.

It should also be noted that the Castle itself is an Archaeological Museum artifact: built before 1056, it has gone through epochs, renovations, and changes of inhabitants, until it officially became a museum venue in 1970.

The Museum is currently undergoing a massive refurbishment that greatly limits the exhibition space, but it’s worth marking on your calendar!https://www.acquimusei.it/

Of course, this is just a small list of good pointers whether you are planning a Monferrato vacation or want to learn more about your area and perhaps treat yourself to a Saturday afternoon as a tourist in your own home.

From there, it’s up to you to visit the Monferrato, stroll through the streets of the towns, cast an eye over the buildings that seem most interesting to you, and let serendipity capture you, that unique thrill of discovering something unexpected and random.

Descending into the depths of the Monferrato, underground, where air and light do not easily penetrate, beneath the dwellings of the farmers and cellarers, are secret little gems; are the Infernot; At first sight, this word seems to have a very clear reference to Hell; who is also underground; in fact, the origin of the term would seem to derive from ‘enfernet“an old French term for prison cells;

I mean, however you look at itthe name doesn’t really do justice to these places: yes underground, yes usually small and isolated, but wonderful signs of a peasant era, where practical sense and intuition came before study.

What are Infernot?

To immerse ourselves in the world of the Infernot del Monferrato, let us start with a definition; Infernot are small underground chambers without light or ventilation, used to store bottled wine; The most extraordinary and suggestive component, however, lies in their material of construction; the Cantoni Stonea unique quality of building stone found only in Monferrato; What distinguishes a wine cellar from a true Infernot, in fact, is that the latter is entirely excavated in Monferrina sandstone.

To understand the origins of the Infernot del Monferrato we must make a little effort of imagination and think of ourselves, for a moment, as farmers in the 19th century: these were the years when the idea of bottling Barbera and the other wines so typical of this generous but in some ways difficult land began to become conceivable; Tending the vineyard is hard work that knows no breaks during the year: the soil is tiring, the rain is heavy and on winter mornings the fog envelops everything and the blades of grass are stiff with frost. The grape harvest and cellar work are only the culmination of total dedication to the grapes and their needs; Soon the farmers realised that the wines, made even more precious by their labour, would risk not surviving the warmer months.

Guided by this intuition, they began to excavate small rooms, even more protected than the already existing cellars, in the sandstone on which the houses were built: thus the Infernot were born, places to preserve, protected by the Cantoni Stone, the best wines.

These farmers and quarrymen, who knew little about geological eras, but knew perfectly well the cycles of the seasons and the properties of all things in life, had in fact guessed and understood the geological cycles and the properties of all things in life; the potential of this strange but beautiful stone, essentially linked to its status as a natural insulator: Pietra da Cantoni, in fact, manages to insulate rooms very well against heat and cold, constituting an excellent barrier against heat and cold; exceptional protection from temperature fluctuations. The fact that the Infernot were shielded from the light and had no ventilation points, with the exception of the entrance, made them truly cosy little wombs, warm in winter and cool in summer, in which to take refuge to find a glimmer of comfort in the harsh peasant way; A sort of small private winery!

Infernots can be of various types: single-room, multi-room or corridor. Moreover, each quarryman imprinted the mark of his style and care in his work: some show smoothed finishes, others still show the picconic views, still others are simply natural split. You can find niches carved into the stone or tiers to house the bottles: some have even created a continuous tier system in their Infernot. Decorations and other elements are then the mark of each person’s flair. There is astrict specifications that stipulate what can be Infernot and what cannot and also classify Infernot according to three criteria: type of construction, bottle storage solution and finish. The full specification can be found here.

La Pietra da Cantoni

As mentioned above, the history of the Infernot is inextricably linked with that of the Cantonian stone, a sandstone formed from calcareous and marly marine layers with incredible thermal insulating capacity. Let’s go back the years again: let’s go back to when man did not exist and the ground was walked by animals as tall as buildings. At that time, the Monferrato was a sea, deep and teeming with life. In its depths of more than 200 metres, gigantic marine reptiles, unimaginable creatures and tiny molluscs were born, fought each other for existence and finally, dying, were deposited on the seabed, forever guarded by the sands and other sediments that slowly overlapped in the cradle of the sea; In the meantime, life on the planet continued to move forward: around 3.5 million years ago, hills began to emerge from the sea and the Monferrato finally emerged; What remains of that sea, its seabed, a mosaic of clays, calcareous algae, small animals, gigantic sharks, fossilised leaves, is today the Pietra da Cantoni and bears witness to the inventiveness and skill of ordinary people, who managed to create small masterpieces out of practical needs;

Visiting the Infernot

After our time travels, let us return to the present: The Infernot, recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are part of a circuit of fourteen Monferrato municipalities, between the provinces of Asti and Alessandria.; Joining all the municipalities is that of Cella Monte Monferrato, which hosts the Widespread Ecomuseum of the Pietra da Cantoni and one of the most characteristic infernots in the area. Now, the Infernot are almost all built in private houses, so they cannot always be visited: some of them can only be visited on Fridays and Sundays by appointment, others only open their doors to visitors on particular occasions of the year; On the Ecomuseum website there are all useful references for organising one’s visit to the Infernot of the circuit, municipality by municipality. And while we’re at it, why not take a stroll through the Monferrato villages and perhaps enjoy a nice glass of Barbera?

If you are reading this article, it only means one thing: you are planning a trip to Monferrato or want to learn more about this wonderful hilly area. You will therefore already know that we are talking about an area between the provinces of Asti and Alessandria that is practically 100% hilly. Imagine: 2,500 square kilometres of hills alone; It goes without saying that in Monferrato there are many heights and viewpoints to admire this wonderful landscape from above.

Castell’Alfero is a beautiful municipality that, as you can easily imagine, owes its name to the presence of an imposing castle. Right here is a fantastic lookout point with views of all the surrounding hills; and if that’s not enough for you, a few miles from the village is Big Bench no.204!

Did you know that Moncalvo Monferrato is the smallest town in Italy? In fact, this tiny town still proudly retains the title of a city despite its small size-we speak of about 3,000 inhabitants. There is so much to see, and by forwarding along the ramparts of Charles Albert Square, what remains of the ancient castle, you will enjoy a unbelievable view.

Agliano is a small but very active town on the top of a hill; as its name suggests, it is home to a thermal spa and is also one of the municipalities of the Nizza DOCG. The Aglianesi wine producers’ association is very active and often organises tastings and events in the village square, surrounded by a beautiful garden. Just arrive in the central square (it’s a bit uphill!) to realise that the town has a beautiful view all around. But if you want to enjoy something unique, you have to climb to the top of the tower, an ancient remnant of Agliano Castle, which was destroyed in 1600: from here the entire Monferrato will open up to your view.

A pochissimi passi da Villa Prato, here is a surprising and very Instagrammable corner: l’Altalena Gigante, inaugurata da pochissimo. The swing stands in one of the most favorable spots, overlooking the hill facing north: from here it is possible to admire not only the neighboring villages, such as Fontanile with its stunning cathedral, but also to see majestic Mont Blanc in the distance. The swing then, so colorful and playful, is an ode to carefreeness and play, to become children again even if only for a moment while observing the magnificence of Nature around us.

We are in Roccaverano, the heart of the Langa astigiana and the highest municipality in the area. This is where people come during the hottest summer days to seek coolness and to taste the typical robiolas of pure goat cheese so typical of this small town; and right here, among the foliage and trees of a small garden, in the historic center, stands a Tower almost thirty meters high, the remnant of a Castle that has been lost; the forests of the Alta Langa dominate here a landscape where the hillside begins to resemble the mountain.

Small bonus: just outside the village of Roccaverano is a second tower, the Tower of Vengore, facing the Acquese: it was an ancient lookout tower that protected the safety of all citizens.

Castles, enchanted and austere places of charm and mystery, in which to stroll to breathe in History at the top of your lungs. Piedmont is a region rich in castles: traditionally, in fact, these buildings served as dwellings for nobles and for protection reasons were built on hilltops so that lookouts could spot enemies from afar.

Today, those days of knights and courtesans are over, and tthe high towers of the castles are wonderful vantage points from which to admire the colours of the hills and the small villages of Piedmont.

Piovera Castle stands on the remains of a monastery that belonged to the Templars and over the centuries has passed several times from hand to hand, without ever losing its beauty. From the Visconti to the Sforza, passing through the Spanish royals, it then returned to the hands of the Savoys; from here it passed to the marquises Balbi, whose name remained linked to the castle, and finally to Count Niccolò Calvi, the current owner. Today, it is possible to visit the castle by choosing from three different routes, all by reservation.

Per info e giornate di apertura: https://www.castelliaperti.it/it/strutture/lista/item/castello-di-piovera.html

https://castellodipiovera.it/

Unfortunately, all that remains of the Castle of Castelnuovo Calcea today are the ramparts and the watchtower: in fact, this area was over the years the site of bloody clashes between families of the most varied nobility, which very often destroyed entire portions of the castle. Today the whole area around the Castle has been turned into a public park: you can walk freely in the area and see the fascinating remnants of this turbulent past.

Guided tours are available on specific days. Trovi le date qui: https://www.castelliaperti.it/it/strutture/lista/item/area-del-castello-di-castelnuovo-calcea.html

Here we are not talking about nobility but clergy: the Castle of Monastero was originally a monastery. During the 15th century, a first defensive structure by the Marquises del Carretto; gradually, the entire small village of Monastero Bormida developed around the castle. Today this village can be reached by passing over the striking medieval bridge; what awaits you is a walk through History. The castle has elements of the 1500s and 1600s, with frescoed rooms and splendid walkways. A curiosity: Monastero Bormida is the birthplace of Augusto Monti, who in Turin was the professor and teacher of many intellectuals of the time, such as Cesare Pavese, Leone Ginzburg, and Tullio Pinelli.

For infos and openings: http://www.comune.monasterobormida.at.it oppure https://www.castelliaperti.it/it/strutture/lista/item/castello-di-monastero-bormida.html.

Costigliole d’Asti Castle stands atop the fortress, in the historic center of the village; a village with a long past, if we consider that the first inscriptions bearing its name date back to 1041! The history of the Castle is intimately linked with that of Monferrato; the first lords of Costigliole, the Lancias, descended directly from Aleramo, a knight at the court of Saxony and the legendary founder of Monferrato.

Over the years, the most important families of the area took over the Castle until 1625, when the conti Asinari found themselves sharing the title of Counts of Costigliole (and thus the Castle) with the family of Verasis. This will be very important for the Castle, which is thus divided into two separate parts: two souls therefore come together in the Castle, daughters of the tastes of each family and their common desire to excel and surpass the other in beauty, class and refinement. In short, a place full of stories and legends of the people who lived here, with all their virtues and human weaknesses; one of the most interesting castles in Monferrato to visit.

For infos and openings: https://www.castelliaperti.it/it/strutture/lista/item/castello-di-costigliole-dasti.html o http://www.comune.costigliole.at.it/